I have tried to create a world of words in
which the desert figures more as medium than as material. Not imitation but
evocation has been the goal.
We camp the first night in the Green River
Desert, just a few miles off the Hanksville road, rise early and head east,
into the dawn, through the desert toward the hidden river. Behind us the pale
fangs of the San Rafael Reef gleam in the early sunlight; above them stands
Temple Mountain - uranium country, poison springs country, headwaters of the
Dirty Devil. Around us the Green River Desert rolls away to the north, south
and east, an absolutely treeless plain, not even a juniper in sight, nothing
but sand, blackbrush, prickly pear, a few sunflowers. Directly eastward we can
see the blue and hazy La Sal Mountains, only sixty miles away by line of sight
but twice that far by road, with nothing whatever to suggest the fantastic,
complex and impassable gulf that falls between here and there. The Colorado
River and its tributary the Green, with their vast canyons and labyrinth of
drainages, lie below the level of the plateau on which we are approaching them,
"under the ledge," as they say in Moab.
The scenery improves as we bounce onward over the
winding, dusty road: reddish sand dunes appear, dense growths of sunflowers
cradled in their leeward crescents. More and more sunflowers, whole fields of
them, acres and acres of gold - perhaps we should call this the Sunflower
Desert. We see a few baldface cows, pass a corral and windmill, meet a rancher
coming out in his pickup truck. Nobody lives in this area but it is utilized
nevertheless; the rancher we saw probably has his home in Hanksville or the
little town of Green River.
Halfway to the river and the land begins to rise,
gradually, much like the approach to Grand Canyon from the south. What we are
going to see is comparable, in fact, to the Grand Canyon - I write this with
reluctance - in scale and grandeur, though not so clearly stratified or
brilliantly colored. As the land rises the vegetation becomes richer, for the
desert almost luxuriant: junipers appear, first as isolated individuals and
then in stands, pinyon pines loaded with cones and vivid colonies of
sunflowers, chamisa, golden beeweed, scarlet penstemon, skyrocket gilia (as we
near 7000 feet), purple asters and a kind of yellow flax. Many of the junipers
- the females - are covered with showers of light-blue berries, that hard
bitter fruit with the flavor of gin. Between the flowered patches and the
clumps of trees are meadows thick with gramagrass and shining Indian
ricegrass_and not a cow, horse, deer or buffalo anywhere. For God 's sake, Bob,
I'm thinking, let 's stop this machine, get out there and eat some grass! But
he grinds on in singleminded second gear, bound for Land's End, and glory.
Flocks of pinyon jays fly off, sparrows dart
before us, a redtailed hawk soars overhead. We climb higher, the land begins to
break away: we head a fork of Happy Canyon, pass close to the box head of
Millard Canyon. A fork in the road, with one branch old, rocky and seldom used,
the other freshly bulldozed through the woods. No signs. We stop, consult our
maps, and take the older road; the new one has probably been made by some oil
exploration outfit.
Again the road brings us close to the brink of
Millard Canyon and here we see something like a little shrine mounted on a
post. We stop. The wooden box contains a register book for visitors, brand-new,
with less than a dozen entries, put here by the BLM--Bureau of Land Management.
"Keep the tourists out," some tourist from Salt Lake City has
written. As fellow tourists we heartily agree.
On to French Spring, where we find two steel
granaries and the old cabin, open and empty. On the wall inside is a large
water-stained photograph in color of a naked woman. The cowboy's agony. We
can't find the spring but don't look very hard, since all of our water cans are
still full.
We drive south down a neck of the plateau between
canyons dropping away, vertically, on either side. Through openings in the
dwarf forest of pinyon and juniper we catch glimpses of hazy depths, spires,
buttes, orange cliffs. A second fork presents itself in the road and again we
take the one to the left, the older one less traveled by, and come all at once
to the big jump and the head of the Flint Trail. We stop, get out to
reconnoiter.
The Flint Trail is actually a jeep track, switchbacking
down a talus slope, the only break in the sheer wall of the plateau for a
hundred sinuous miles. Originally a horse trail, it was enlarged to jeep size
by the uranium hunters, who found nothing down below worth bringing up in
trucks, and abandoned it. Now, after the recent rains, which were also
responsible for the amazing growth of grass and flowers we have seen, we find
the trail marvelously eroded, stripped of all vestiges of soil, trenched and
gullied down to bare rock, in places more like a stairway than a road. Even if
we can get the Land Rover down this thing, how can we ever get it back up
again?
But it doesn't occur to either of us to back away
from the attempt. We are determined to get into The Maze. Waterman has great
confidence in his machine; and furthermore, as with anything seductively
attractive, we are obsessed only with getting in; we can worry later about
getting out.
Munching pinyon nuts fresh from the trees nearby,
we fill the fuel tank and cache the empty jerrycan, also a full one, in the
bushes. Pine nuts are delicious, sweeter than hazelnuts but difficult to eat;
you have to crack the shells in your teeth and then, because they are smaller
than peanut kernels, you have to separate the meat from the shell with your
tongue. If one had to spend a winter in Frenchy's cabin, let us say, with
nothing to eat but pinyon nuts, it is an interesting question whether or not
you could eat them fast enough to keep from starving to death. Have to ask the
Indians about this.
Glad to get out of the Land Rover and away from
the gasoline fumes, I lead the way on foot down the Flint Trail, moving what
rocks I can out of the path. Waterman follows with the vehicle in first gear,
low range and four-wheel drive, creeping and lurching downward from rock to
rock, in and out of the gutters, at a speed too slow to register on the
speedometer. The descent is four miles long, in vertical distance about two
thousand feet. In places the trail is so narrow that he has to scrape against
the inside wall to get through. The curves are banked the wrong way, sliding
toward the outer edge, and the turns at the end of each switchback are so tight
that we must jockey the Land Rover back and forth to get it through them. But
all goes well and in an hour we arrive at the bottom.
Here we pause for a while to rest and to inspect
the fragments of low-grade, blackish petrified wood scattered about the base of
a butte. To the northeast we can see a little of The Maze, a vermiculate area
of pink and white rock beyond and below the ledge we are now on, and on this
side of it a number of standing monoliths - Candlestick Spire, Lizard Rock and
others unnamed.
Close to the river now, down in the true desert
again, the heat begins to come through; we peel off our shirts before going on.
Thirteen miles more to the end of the road. We proceed, following the dim
tracks through a barren region of slab and sand thinly populated with scattered
junipers and the usual scrubby growth of prickly pear, yucca and the alive but lifeless-looking
blackbrush. The trail leads up and down hills, in and out of washes and along
the spines of ridges, requiring fourwheel drive most of the way.
After what seems like another hour we see ahead
the welcome sight of cottonwoods, leaves of green and gold shimmering down in a
draw. We take a side track toward them and discover the remains of an ancient
corral, old firepits, and a dozen tiny rivulets of water issuing from a thicket
of tamarisk and willow on the canyon wall. This should be Big Water Spring.
Although we still have plenty of water in the Land Rover we are mighty glad to
see it.
In the shade of the big trees, whose leaves
tinkle musically, like gold foil, above our heads, we eat lunch and fill our
bellies with the cool sweet water, and lie on our backs and sleep and dream. A
few flies, the fluttering leaves, the trickle of water give a fine edge and
scoring to the deep background of - silence? No - of stillness, peace.
I think of music, and of a musical analogy to
what seems to me the unique spirit of desert places. Suppose for example that
we can find a certain resemblance between the music of Bach and the sea; the
music of Debussy and a forest glade; the music of Beethoven and (of course)
great mountains; then who has written of the desert?
Mozart? Hardly the outdoor type, that fellow -
much too elegant, symmetrical, formally perfect. Vivaldi, Corelli, Monteverdi?
- cathedral interiors only - fluid architecture. Jazz? The best of jazz for all
its virtues cannot escape the limitations of its origin: it is indoor music,
city music, distilled from the melancholy nightclubs and the marijuana smoke of
dim, sad, nighttime rooms: a joyless sound, for all its nervous energy.
In the desert I am reminded of something quite
different - the bleak, thin-textured work of men like Berg, Schoenberg, Ernst
Krenek, Webern and the American, Elliot Carter. Quite by accident, no doubt,
although both Schoenberg and Krenek lived part of their lives in the Southwest,
their music comes closer than any other I know to representing the apartness,
the otherness, the strangeness of the desert. Like certain aspects of this
music, the desert is also a-tonal, cruel, clear, inhuman, neither romantic nor
classical, motionless and emotionless, at one and the same time - another
paradox - both agonized and deeply still.
Like death? Perhaps. And perhaps that is why life
nowhere appears so brave, so bright, so full of oracle and miracle as in the
desert.
Waterman has another problem. As with Newcomb
down in Glen Canyon - what is this thing with beards? - he doesn't want to go
back. Or says he doesn't. Doesn't want to go back to Aspen. Where the draft
board waits for him, Robert Waterman. It seems that the U.S. Government - what
country is that? - has got another war going somewhere, I forget exactly where,
on another continent as usual, and they want Waterman to go over there and
fight for them. For IT, I mean - when did a government ever consist of human
beings? And Waterman doesn't want to go, he might get killed. And for what?
As any true patriot would, I urge him to hide
down here under the ledge. Even offer to bring him supplies at regular times,
and the news, and anything else he might need. He is tempted - but then
remembers his girl. There's a girl back in Denver. I'll bring her too, I tell
him. He decides to think it over.
In the meantime we refill the water bag, get back
in the Land Rover and drive on. Seven more miles rough as a cob around the
crumbling base of Elaterite Butte, some hesitation and backtracking among
alternate jeep trails, all of them dead ends, and we finally come out near
sundown on the brink of things, nothing beyond but nothingness - a veil, blue
with remoteness - and below the edge the northerly portion of The Maze.
We can see deep narrow canyons down in there
branching out in all directions, and sandy floors with clumps of trees--oaks?
cottonwoods? Dividing one canyon from the next are high thin partitions of nude
sandstone, smoothly sculptured and elaborately serpentine, colored in
horizontal bands of gray, buff, rose and maroon. The melted ice-cream effect
again - Neapolitan ice cream. On top of one of the walls stand four gigantic
monoliths, dark red, angular and square-cornered, capped with remnants of the
same hard white rock on which we have brought the Land Rover to a stop. Below
these monuments and beyond them the innumerable canyons extend into the base of
Elaterite Mesa (which underlies Elaterite Butte) and into the south and
southeast for as far as we can see. It is like a labyrinth indeed - a labyrinth
with the roof removed.
Very interesting. But first things first. Food.
We build a little juniper fire and cook our supper. High wind blowing now -
drives the sparks from our fire over the rim, into the velvet abyss. We smoke
good cheap cigars and watch the colors slowly change and fade upon the canyon
walls, the four great monuments, the spires and buttes and mesas beyond.
What shall we name those four unnamed formations
standing erect above this end of The Maze? From our vantage point they are the
most striking landmarks in the middle ground of the scene before us. We discuss
the matter. In a far-fetched way they resemble tombstones, or altars, or
chimney stacks, or stone tablets set on end. The waning moon rises in the east,
lagging far behind the vanished sun. Altars of the Moon? That sounds grand and
dramatic - but then why not Tablets of the Sun, equally so? How about Tombs of
Ishtar? Gilgamesh? Vishnu? Shiva the Destroyer?
Why call them anything at all? asks Waterman; why
not let them alone? And to that suggestion I instantly agree; of course - why
name them? Vanity, vanity, nothing but vanity: the itch for naming things is
almost as bad as the itch for possessing things. Let them and leave them alone
- they'll survive for a few more thousand years, more or less, without any
glorification from us.
But at once another disturbing thought comes to
mind: if we don't name them somebody else surely will. Then, says Waterman in
effect, let the shame be on their heads. True, I agree, and yet - and yet Rilke
said that things don't truly exist until the poet gives them names. Who was
Rilke? he asks. Rainer Maria Rilke, I explain, was a German poet who lived off
countesses. I thought so, he says; that explains it. Yes, I agree once more,
maybe it does; still - we might properly consider the question strictly on its
merits. If any, says Waterman. It has some, I insist.
Through naming comes knowing; we grasp an object,
mentally, by giving it a name - hension, prehension, apprehension. And thus
through language create a whole world, corresponding to the other world out
there. Or we trust that it corresponds. Or perhaps, like a German poet, we
cease to care, becoming more concerned with the naming than with the things
named; the former becomes more real than the latter. And so in the end the
world is lost again. No, the world remains - those unique, particular,
incorrigibly individual junipers and sandstone monoliths - and it is we who are
lost. Again. Round and round, through the endless labyrinth of thought - the
maze.